Ancohuma - Illampu

Ancohuma 6427m / 21080 ft - Illampu 6382m / 20932ft
NORMAL ROUTE
Ancohuma - SOUTH-WEST SIDE
Illampu - NORTH-WEST SIDE
9 days

The access to the impressive Illampu massif goes through Sorata town located at approximately 2700m.a.s.l.

DAY 1. Depart from La Paz on land transport to Sorata town (3 hours approximately).
Alternatively we can visit the Grotto of St. Peter (a cave which contains a lagoon and bats).
We stay overnight at a hotel.

DAY 2. Go on land transport to Colani, from there trek to Chilata lagoon at 4600m.a.s.l. Camping.
Day 3. Continue trekking to the Glacier Lagoon at 5040m.a.s.l. Base camp.

Day 4. Ascend walking between stones and rocks to the edge of the glacier. High Camp.

Day 5. We do a little technical climb that leads us to the summit (6 hours). Descend to the Glacier Lagoon.

Day 6. Continue trekking over stones, rocks and sand by a hillside through uphills and downhills to Aguas Calientes. 4650m.a.s.l. base camp.

Day 7. Rest.

DAY 8. Ascend to the high camp walking over stones, rocks and sand to the edge of Illampu glacier (4 hours). High camp at 5500m.a.s.l.

DAY 9. Go across a cracked plateau, then climb a 300m 50°/60° wall. Then flank a ridge of ice and a plateau full of accumulated snow . Finally we climb a 40 meters wall to Illampu summit 6382m.a.s.l.
Sometimes the bottom wall bergschrund presents many technical difficulties. The ice composition is very changeable with a predominance of melting ice (rotten ice). Winds are extremely strong and irregular. The ridge path leads directly to the summit.
From the summit you can see Lake Titicaca, the Altiplano and the deep and warm valleys which descend and disappear, within the permanent snow accumulations of the eastern side, where Amazonian flatlands are. We discover the path of the Cordillera Real showing its countless snowy peaks.
Return to base camp in Aguas Calientes.

DAY 10. Return trekking from Aguas Calientes to Lacatia (3 hours) and from there by land transport to Sorata and finally to La Paz.

THE TOUR INCLUDES:
Mountain guide, private transportation, cook, food, camping and cooking equipment , carrier mules for luggage.

Illampu

6382m.a.s.l./ 20932ft
NORMAL ROUTE - NORTHWEST SIDE
5 days

Among the great snowy mountains of Bolivia, the Illampu is one whose ascent requires considerable physical and mental preparation. It was first climbed in 1928 by H. Pfann, A. Horeschowsky, H. Hortnagel and E. Hein. Its summit is reserved for serious climbers, with enough experience.

Day 1. We depart from La Paz on land transport to Sorata town (3 and a half hours approximately).
Alternatively we can visit the Grotto of St. Peter (a cave which contains a lagoon and bats).
Overnight stay at a hotel.

DAY 2. From Sorata we get into the high-mountain range region domains. Travel on a 4x4 vehicle through a dirt road in bad conditions to Lacatia (1 hour). Then we begin trekking on a flat road full of stones, rocks and sand to Aguas Calientes. base camp 4650m.a.s.l.

DAY 3. We begin approach trekking on unstable rocks (45 minutes), go across stones, rocks and sand to reach the edge of the glacier (2 hours). High camp 5500m.a.s.l.

DAY 4. Go across a cracked plateau, then climb a 300m 50°/60° wall. Then flank a ridge of ice and a plateau full of accumulated snow . Finally we climb a 40 meters wall to Illampu summit 6382m.a.s.l.
Sometimes the bottom wall bergschrund presents many technical difficulties. The ice composition is very changeable with a predominance of melting ice (rotten ice). Winds are extremely strong and irregular. The ridge path leads directly to the summit.
From the summit you can see Lake Titicaca, the Altiplano and the deep and warm valleys which descend and disappear, within the permanent snow accumulations of the eastern side, where Amazonian flatlands are. We discover the path of the Cordillera Real showing its countless snowy peaks.
Return to base camp in Aguas Calientes.

DAY 5. Return trekking from Aguas Calientes to Lacatia (3 hours) and from there by land transport to Sorata and finally to La Paz.

THE TOUR INCLUDES:
Mountain guide, private transportation, cook, food, camping and cooking equipment , carrier mules for luggage.